hva bør verdiene mine ligge på??!

[siwelise]

hei!

har endelig begynt å måle en del verdier nå etter at jeg satte opp akvariet for 1,5 mnd siden. Nå har jeg en del levende stein oppi, samt noen klovnefisker. Har intensjon om å prøve meg på alle typer koraller, først og fremst mykkoraller og nyttedyr selvsagt. Spørsmålet mitt er da som følger: hva bør verdiene mine ligge på??! jeg tenker på ph, kh, calsium etc...

mvh siw

[Frogfish]

Her har du en link til hvilken vannverdier som er i naturlig sjøvann. Så lenge vannverdiene dine ikke ligger milelangt unna dette er det bare å sette igang. Skal se om jeg ikke kan få spadd opp en litt enklere liste en dette til deg. Nitrat, KH, Calcium, PH og saltholdighet er de viktigste verdiene du trenger å bry deg om, men det vet du jo

[ultragoku]

Ta en titt på www.korallrev.no

[Frogfish]

Hvis du ikke gidder å klikke på linkene så skal verdiene ligge innenfor:

Temperatur: 22-29 grader (tempreatur over 30 grader over lengre perioder er ikke bra korallene og kan føre til bla bleking og død, fiskene liker det heller ikke )
saltinnhold 1.024 - 1.026 ved 25 grader (vil variere etter temperaturen)
Ph 8-8.6 8lavere om natten
Kalsium 400-420
nitrat under 20 (jo lavere jo bedre, helst ikke målbar)
KH 7-12
Fosfat 0
Nitrit ikke målbar
Amonium 0

Disse verdiene kan selvfølgelig diskuteres er ment som pekepinn.

[siwelise]

ok,
da ser det ut som alt er på plass i karet mitt, da er det bare å fylle opp

jeg angrer i hvert fall ikke på at jeg denne gangen brukte lang tid på oppsettet, så mye greiere enn å få så svartens mye krøll i begynnelsen :lol: :lol: :lol:

siw

[Reptilus]

Like all living creatures, fish give off waste products. These waste products break down into ammonia (NH3), which is highly toxic to most fishes. In nature, the volume of water per fish is extremely high, and waste products become diluted to low concentrations. In aquariums, however, it can take as little as a few hours for ammonia concentrations to reach toxic levels.

How much ammonia is too much? The quick answer is: if a test kit is able to measure it, you have too much. In aquaria-speak, the "nitrogen cycle"' (more precisely, the nitrification cycle) is the biological process that converts ammonia into other, relatively harmless nitrogen compounds. Fortunately, several species of bacteria do this conversion for us. Some species convert ammonia (NH3) to nitrite (N02-), while others convert nitrite to nitrate (NO3-). Thus, cycling the tank refers to the process of establishing bacterial colonies in the filter bed that convert ammonia to nitrite and finally into nitrate.



The desired species of nitrifying bacteria are present everywhere. Therefore, once you have an ammonia source in your tank, it is only a matter of time before the desired bacteria establish a colony in your filter bed. The most common way to do this is to place a few hardy and inexpensive fish in your aquarium. The fish waste contains the ammonia on which the bacteria live. Do not overfeed them! The bacteria replicate slowly, and adding in too much food can cause the process to take longer, with the possible result being the loss of fish. During this time, we recommend feeding every other day. Some suggested species include: Zebra Danios and Black Skirt Tetras for fresh water tanks and Damsels for salt water tanks. Note: Do not use feeder goldfish. Although cheap, they create large amounts of ammonia, which a new tank is not equipped to handle.
Salt Water Reef tanks have these bacteria present in the live sand and / or live rock in high concentrations, therefore the cycling time is shortened.



During the cycling process, ammonia levels will go up and then suddenly plummet as the nitrite-forming bacteria (Nitrosomonas) take hold. Because nitrate-forming bacteria do not even begin to appear until nitrite is present in significant quantities, nitrite levels increase dramatically (as the built-up ammonia is converted), continuing to rise as the constantly produced ammonia is converted to nitrite. Once the nitrate-forming bacteria take hold, Nitrobacter bacteria start to convert Nitrite into Nitrate. As nitrite levels fall, nitrate levels rise, and the tank becomes fully cycled.

Your tank is fully cycled once nitrates are being produced (and ammonia and nitrite levels are zero). To determine when the cycle has completed, buy appropriate test kits and measure the levels yourself. The cycling process normally takes anywhere from 4-6 weeks. It is sometimes possible to speed up the cycling time by adding products that contain these bacteria.




Warning: If you loose fish during this process, AVOID THE TEMPTATION TO GET MORE FISH UNTIL AFTER YOUR TANK HAS FULLY CYCLED! You cannot introduce fish in the middle of the Nitrogen cycle. They cannot adjust their bodies to the rapidly increasing levels of Ammonia and Nitrite and they will die within days of introduction. High levels affect the red blood cells of fish causing internal injuries and most likely, death. More fish means more ammonia production, increasing the stress on all fish and the likelihood of additional fish loss.

Once your tank is cycled and you begin to add fish, remember to do regularly scheduled water changes. Failure to do water changes can result in your water becoming discolored (brown, yellow, green or a cloudy white) and your fish becoming stressed out and more susceptible to disease. We recommend purified water (like our environmentally friendly method, or the more wasteful Reverse Osmosis method) for water changes. Purifying the water removes heavy metals, toxins, organic compounds and other “nastiness� from the water, making it very clean. If you must use tap water, be sure to use products that remove Chlorine and Chloramines, as these chemicals are safe for human consumption, but are not safe for fish. They can kill fish within an hour if not removed. If you are running a Salt Water Reef tank you must keep a close eye on your Nitrate levels as they are harmful to corals and invertebrates as well as fish.
Knowledge and patience are the keys to having a successful aquarium. Be patient while your tank is cycling, take the time to read and learn more about the fish you intend to keep. Keeping an aquarium is a commitment. You get out of it what you put into it. You are creating a contained environment that simulates the fish’s natural environment and great care should be exercised to ensure everything is as close to the natural conditions as possible These things include but are not limited to proper temperature, high quality protein foods, stable water conditions, adequate lighting and filtration.

Original Composition by members of rec.aquaria and alt.aquaria

Revisions by Michael Koenig, Michael Holcomb and Charles Teel

[siwelise]

oj,
det vaqr mye info gitt! Men det ser ut som mine verdier er ok, har kjørt inn tanken i snart to mnd uten å tilføre fisk, nå bor der en liten klovnefisk. Verdiene mine er litt høye, men ikke så høye at det er fare på ferde... tror dette skal gå bra jeg!

siw

[Frogfish]

Begynn forsiktig med noen eremitter, snegler, slangestjerner og en eller to fisker,helst alge etende. Du kan også hive oppi en myk korall eller to. Det er når du putter dyrene oppi akvariet ditt at tanken begynner å bli belastet. Dette kan medføre at du får en liten alge oppblomstring.

Ikke fall for fristelsen til å kjøpe en anemone til klovnen din enda. Anemoner er rimelig kravstore på vannkvaliteten og krever ganske mye lys. Hvis den dør nå kan du risikere å få en unødvendig høy belastning i akvariet ditt noe som kan føre til en ny algeoppblomstring med dertil nye problemer.

Når de rosa kalkalgene begynner å vokse kan du putte oppi litt vanskeligere ting.

Det tar lang lang tid før et saltvanns akvariet er ferdig innkjørt. Men du kan trygt putte oppi noen enkle hardføre dyr nå. Bedre å ta det litt rolig i begynnelsen en å svi av mange penger på dyr og koraller som kanskje dør etter kort tid.

[siwelise]

ok,
så bra at jeg har dere her! Da må jeg skaffe meg noen nyttedyr, vet du om de har det inne på aquazoo nå for tiden??! Hvor lang tid bør jeg ha bare disse dyrene i tanken??!

siw

[siwelise]

jeg tenkte på en ting,

hva tilsetter dere vannet for å få best mulig vann??! ser at calcium verdiene mine er litt lave enda, finnes der noe all round mix som tilsetter det meste??!

siw